(15) How One of NYC’s Best Bakeries Makes Focaccia | Made to Order | Bon Appétit - YouTube

The Art of Focaccia: A Three-Day Journey with Radio Bakery

Kelly Mencin, Chef and Owner of Radio Bakery in New York City, shares her meticulous three-day process for creating their renowned focaccia, specifically the Sausage and Chive variant. This bread is celebrated for its airy, chewy texture, thin, crispy crust, and deeply flavorful, oily crumb.

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Radio Bakery was named by The New York Times as one of the best bakeries in the United States. Their focaccia is a specialty.

What Defines Perfect Focaccia?

Focaccia is an Italian leavened flatbread, typically seasoned with olive oil and salt, and can be flavored with herbs or other ingredients.
Kelly describes her ideal focaccia as:

The Meticulous Three-Day Process

Important

Crafting this exceptional focaccia is a labor of love, spanning three days to develop maximum flavor and texture.

  1. Day 1: Mixing the Levain (Starter)
    • The foundation of the focaccia's flavor and leavening.
  2. Day 2: Dough Mixing, Bulk Fermentation, Shaping, and Initial Proofing
    • The dough is mixed, undergoes a series of folds (bulk fermentation), is divided, shaped into pans, and begins its proofing journey before heading to the walk-in refrigerator.
  3. Day 3: Final Proofing, Topping, and Baking
    • The dough completes its proofing at ambient temperature, is topped, and then baked to golden perfection.

Day 1: Cultivating the Levain

The process begins with creating the levain, an offshoot of their sourdough starter.

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A sourdough starter is a living culture of flour and water that naturally captures wild yeasts and bacteria, developing complex flavors and leavening power over time. The levain is a portion of this starter fed with additional flour and water to prepare it for a specific bake.

Example

The nurturing of a sourdough starter is akin to tending a garden; it requires patience, observation, and understanding of a living ecosystem. Kelly mentions that many bakeries will share starter – a beautiful tradition reflecting the communal spirit of baking. Could this microbial sharing be seen as a tangible exchange of local terroir and a baker's personal touch?

Day 2: Building the Dough

Part 1: Autolyse

The levain, now active and bubbly, is ready to be incorporated into the main dough. The first step is an autolyse.

Important

Autolyse is a resting period for flour and water (before other ingredients like salt and levain are added) that allows the flour to fully hydrate and gluten to begin developing naturally. This results in a dough that is easier to work with and has better extensibility.

Fail

Water temperature is crucial. Too hot, and the dough will over-proof; too cold, and fermentation will be sluggish.

Part 2: Incorporating Remaining Ingredients & Initial Mixing

Important

Salt is added later with the reserved water because it can inhibit yeast activity and gluten development if added too early in high concentrations.

Part 3: Bulk Fermentation & Folds

This stage is crucial for developing gluten strength and structure.

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Bulk fermentation involves a series of "folds" (like the "slap and fold" technique shown) performed on the dough at intervals. These folds strengthen the gluten network, incorporate air, and equalize dough temperature.

Part 4: Dividing, Shaping & Initial Pan Proof

After approximately 3 hours of bulk fermentation (including folds), the dough will have filled its container and show good tension.

Check

A "float test" can indicate if the dough is well-proofed: a small piece of dough dropped into water should float if it has enough trapped air.

Example

The choice of pan, like the Lloyd pans, highlights how specialized equipment can significantly impact the final product. It's a reminder that the tools of a craft are often as important as the technique.

Part 5: Cold Proofing (Retarding)

After the initial room temperature proof in pans, the focaccia is moved to a walk-in refrigerator (or a home fridge) to proof overnight.

Important

Cold proofing, or retarding, slows down the fermentation process. This extended period allows for complex flavor development and also makes the high-hydration dough easier to handle the next day.

Day 3: Final Proof, Topping & Baking

Part 1: Final Ambient Proof

The chilled focaccia is taken out of the refrigerator (around 5 a.m. at Radio Bakery) and allowed to sit at ambient temperature for 2-4 hours.

Part 2: Topping

Radio Bakery has rotating focaccia toppings. For the Sausage and Chive version:

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Crème fraîche is used because its high fat content gives it a high heat tolerance, preventing it from breaking or curdling during baking, unlike sour cream.

Important

Confidently press fingers all the way to the bottom of the pan, creating dimples. This evenly distributes air bubbles, prevents large tunnels from forming, and creates wells for the toppings and oil to settle into. One confident dock is better than multiple hesitant ones, which can degas the dough too much.

Part 3: Baking

Note

"The most important thing is you want to bake it hot and fast." - Kelly Mencin

Part 4: Finishing Touches

Once out of the oven, the Sausage and Chive focaccia is:

Note

"Eating this focaccia hot out of the oven is like one of the best things you could eat here... Fatty from the bacon, the crème fraîche, slightly greasy—we love a little greasy finger—super crunchy on the bottom, and then like fresh and oniony from the chives. It hits all the notes." - Kelly Mencin


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